Kitchen Wench

Growing up, my mom was always the health conscious one when it came to our family’s eating habits.  As a result, we didn’t eat a lot of cream soups or sauces at home, so I obviously rebelled by ordering them as often as possible whenever we went out to eat.  I don’t think I met a cream-based soup I didn’t like, and I adored pasta with tomato cream sauce.

Unfortunately, I no longer have the metabolism of a scrawny 12 year old, so I can’t eat clam chowder every day and expect to still fit in my pants.  However, I recently had a little leftover sour cream and discovered that just a little bit adds a nice tang and rich texture to regular tomato sauce. Plus, a tablespoon of regular sour cream has roughly half the fat and calories of heavy cream, and you can also buy low fat or fat free versions.

Creamy Tomato Sauce

• 1 large (28 oz) can whole plum tomatoes
• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp julienned sun dried tomatoes packed in oil
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1 tsp sugar
• 1/4 cup sour cream
• salt and pepper to taste
• 4 large leaves of fresh basil, chopped (optional)
• grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

1. In a large saute pan, heat olive oil over medium low heat.  Saute garlic until soft but not browned.  Add sun dried tomatoes and cook one minute more.  Add tomato paste and stir until the tomatoes and garlic are coated and fragrant.

2.  Add the canned tomatoes.  Using the back of a wooden spoon or spatula, break up the tomatoes into smaller pieces.  I like my sauce pretty chunky, so I usually break the tomatoes into halves or thirds.  Bring sauce up to a gentle simmer.  Add vinegar and sugar.  Taste and season with salt and pepper to your liking.  Simmer for 10 minutes, then taste again and re-season if necessary.

3.  Remove sauce from heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.  Stir in sour cream.  Pour over hot pasta and top with basil and Parmesan.

Makes enough sauce for 4 generous servings.  This sauce also keeps for a few days in the fridge and reheats easily.

Every time Lee and I go out to eat Vietnamese food, the conversation invariably devolves into us lamenting that there are no Vietnamese restaurants in our neighborhood.  We always  imagine how much better our lives would be if we could get Vietnamese within walking distance.  We’re certain we’d eat there all the time and that we’d  surely be skinnier if we went on an all pho or all bun diet.

The closest place to us is Nam Viet in Cleveland Park, but it’s a pain to catch the H bus across Rock Creek Park, and driving there on the weekend always turns into a parking nightmare.  Plus their food still isn’t nearly as good at what you can get at Eden Center or at Pho 75 in Arlington.  So, Vietnamese has become a bit of a special treat for us.

We’ve even taken to stopping at this pho place in Harrisburg on  to see Lee’s family at Christmas time.  Every time I eat there, I think about or mention how I wish I could get some pho in Columbia Heights for Christmas.  You can therefore imagine my shock when last month I was walking home from the Metro and I spotted a giant sign on the side of a building that read, “Pho 14 Coming Soon.”

I stopped.  I stared.  And then I pulled out my cellphone and called Lee to announce my discovery.  Sure, I was less than 2 blocks from my apartment, but this news could not wait.

Now on my walks home from work, I peer into the window, trying to figure out how close they are.  For a long time, the windows were covered in brown kraft paper and I hadn’t been able to divine much except for the fact that they’d installed light fixtures in the ceiling. Around mid-February, purple bubble letters appeared on the window that read “Coming in Mid-March”.

Well, my friends, it is now mid-March.  The kraft paper has come down and I can confirm that there is a big flat screen tv, a tiki-themed bar area, and a very kitchy-looking fake stone fountain.  The decor might not be the greatest, but I don’t care as long as the food is good.  Apparently tonight was the soft opening, and Prince of Petworth gives it the thumbs up.  Pending final inspections, they will be opening on Thursday.  I will be there, ready and hungry.

Pho 14 Vietnamese Restaurant
1436 Park Rd Nw
Washington, DC

I think you either love or hate this holiday, and I know a lot of people hate it.  I realize that despite the business it draws, restaurants must hate this day.  I showed up last night for a 5 pm dinner reservation at Brasserie Beck (the only time available when making a reservation 2 weeks in advance) and the hostess was already starting to lose it.  While we were waiting to be seated, some poor idiot called and asked if there were any tables left.  “No,” she said, clutching her head, “we are completely booked.  The restaurant is completely booked.”  I got the feeling she’d probably had this conversation countless times that day.

As we were escorted to the table, it dawned on me.  Eating out on Valentine’s Day is like the dining equivalent to flying on Thanksgiving weekend.  All sorts of people who normally never eat out or come into the city pop out of the woodwork for this one day.  They’re like those infuriating people in the security line who somehow haven’t heard about the 3 oz liquids rule.  You can usually tell just by looking — there’s the  guy in sloppy jeans and sneakers; the girl in an inappropriately tiny dress with inappropriately high heels; and that horrible couple that keeps making out at the table across from you.

As for me, I like Valentine’s Day.  But not because I like roses or chocolates or fancy dinners.  Don’t get me wrong–I like all of those things very much, but you can have them any day of the week if you really want them.  No, I like Valentine’s Day for far, far nerdier reasons.  I like Valentine’s Day in the same way that the staff at Martha Stewart Living likes Valentine’s Day: it’s an excuse to make beautiful, delicious things.  As I kid, I loved making paper Valentine’s.  Actually, I’d really love it if someone gave me some construction paper and glitter glue right now.  Now that I’m older, I like the excuse to bake something in the shape of a heart and put pink frosting on it.

Last year, I decided to indulge myself and I made a myriad of chocolate and vanilla cut out cookies.  I sandwiched some of them with raspberry jam and covered the others with all sorts of pink and red designs.  It was delightful. This year, I was felled by a bout of stomach flu and couldn’t make any cookies.  Well, I suppose I could have, but I wouldn’t have been able to eat any, and  no one wants cookies made by a germy person, no matter how pretty they are.  I’ll just have to wait until next year.

I just took this loaf out of the oven, and it’s so good than I ran to my computer to type up the recipe.  Now, beer bread does not have quite the same crusty texture and tender crumb as a yeast bread, but it’s quick, easy, and you can make it in an hour.  In other words, it’s about as close to instant gratification as homemade bread gets.

One thing I have learned is that baking with beer is a lot like cooking with wine–you should use beer that you’d actually drink.  If you don’t like how it tastes out of the bottle, you probably won’t like it baked either, so it’s in your interest to spend a little extra for something tasty.  I used Young’s Double Chocolate Stout because it is absolutely delicious.  Young’s is made with actual chocolate and is incredibly smooth.  The trick here is to use a beer that has a rich, malty flavor but is not strongly bitter.  This is a dessert bread and a very bitter beer is going to make your bread taste foul.  (I once made a completely inedible loaf out of some Bell’s Porter.  It was a grayish and tasted like burnt coffee–so, so wrong.)

I seem to be on a bit of a cherry kick here, but you could easily substitute a different type of  dried or fresh fruit.  For Christmas, I recieved a giant jar of homemade sour cherry cordial from Lee’s mom, and this seemed like a great way to use up the tipsy cherries left floating in the jar.  Fresh or canned sour cherries in water would also work just as well.

Chocolate Stout and Tart Cherry Beer Bread

• 3 cups all purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 cup whole sour cherries, pitted
• 12 oz Young’s Double Chocolate Stout

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Grease a 9″x5″ loaf pan.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together dry ingredients.  Make a well in the center of the bowl and pour in beer and cherries.  Gently fold the flour into the beer, stopping when the dough has just absorbed all the flour.  Be careful not to over mix or stir vigorously, as this will destroy the bubbles and make the bread dense.

3. Pour dough into loaf pan and smooth the top with a spoon or rubber spatula. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Biscotti is one of those cookies that can be hit or miss.  I have nearly broken a tooth on dry, flavorless store-bought biscotti.  I know you’re supposed to dunk them in coffee, but I believe a good biscotti should taste delightful even by itself.  I’ve been tinkering with this recipe for years, starting with the original version for Chocolate-Dipped Cherry-Hazelnut Biscotti.  The first time I made it, I thought the orange zest was overpowering, and dipping the biscotti in chocolate was messy and time consuming.  However, I kept the recipe because I always ship some cookies at Christmas, and biscotti are very sturdy and keep for several weeks.  Instead, I started tweaking the recipe a little bit each year.  I dropped the orange zest and swapped out hazelnuts for almonds.  I tried mixing in chocolate chips, which tasted good if inauthentic.  This year I decided to simplify by ditching the chocolate altogether and enhancing the nuts with Amaretto.  The resulting cookie has the rich almond flavor and crunchy (but not rock hard) texture that I’ve been looking for all this time. Read the rest of this entry »

Photo by Flickr user IRRI Images

Anyone from the Minneapolis/St. Paul metro area will be familiar with my  favorite childhood grocery store chain, Byerly’s.  Growing up, I loved to eat this soup more than… well, any other soup. But I can’t get anything like it in DC, so I’ve tried to recreate it myself.  Of course, I did all this before Byerly’s so kindly posted their recipe on the internet, so it’s not exactly right, but I came awfully close.  Either way, it’s pretty delicious.

Byerly’s Wild Rice Soup

Wild rice almost an hour to cook, so I buy fully cooked vacuum packs of wild rice from Trader Joe’s.  I don’t taste a difference in flavor or texture; it’s perfectly cooked out of the bag.

If  you can’t get your hands on a aged white cheddar, omit the cheese.  I used an English cheddar aged 2 years and it has a rich, nutty flavor that adds a nice depth to the soup.  Regular supermarket cheddar tastes radically different and won’t work.

• 6 tbsp butter
• 1/2 cup flour
• 5 cups chicken stock
• 1 cup milk
• 4 cups cooked wild rice
• 1 cup carrots, chopped into 1″ pieces
• 1 1/2 cups celery, chopped into 1″ pieces
• 1 8 oz ham steak, cut into 1″ cubes
• 1 cup grated aged white cheddar
• 1 cup sliced almonds
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 tsp dried basil
• 1/2 tsp sage
• 1/2 tsp herbs de provence
• Salt and pepper to taste

1.  In a large pot or dutch oven, melt butter over low heat.  Once the bubbles have subsided, sprinkle in flour and whisk to make a roux.  Continue whisking until roux is golden brown.  Slowly add the chicken stock and continue whisking to get out any lumps.  Bring mixture to a boil, stirring constantly.

2.  Lower the heat and bring soup to a simmer.  Add milk, carrots, celery, ham, rice, and herbs.  Simmer 10-15 minutes, until the carrots and celery are tender.  Turn off the heat and stir in the cheese.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  (The cheese and ham are pretty salty, so you may not need any additional sodium.)

3.  Remove bay leaf and serve with a sprinkling of sliced almonds.  This soup also reheats and freezes well.

Makes about 6 generous servings.

Better late than never, I say… This month has been incredibly busy; I’ve currently got one Christmas down and one more to go.  I wanted to get these pictures  up sooner, but this will have to do for now.  Click on the thumbnails for a full size image.  Recipes, where available, are linked.

Homemade Marshmallows from Alton Brown

Martha Stewart’s Pecan Bars

Almond Cherry Biscotti (recipe forthcoming)

Bittersweet Mocha Cookies from Fine Cooking

Smitten Kitchen’s Brownie Roll-Out Cookies

Jam Thumbprint Trios

Coconut Snowballs and Itty Bitty Gingerbread Men

Peppermint Meringues

They are also selling duck breast (as well as duck legs, as previously mentioned), whole duckling, veal chops, and Australian lamb legs.  Today there was white asparagus and Brussels sprouts on the stalk.  And they doubled the number of express check-out lines and added self-check out lanes.

WHAT IS GOING ON?!

I mean, the customer service is still as surly as ever, but it’s like they’re actually trying to stop sucking so bad.  Did someone just read my mind and finally give me what I wanted after 2.5 years of torturous shopping experiences at that store?!

I feel like I just entered the bizarro world.

As I’ve mentioned on more than one occasion, I hate the Columbia Heights Giant.  In fact, every time I go in there, I leave either in a state of total rage, utter dejection, or both.  But I can’t seem to stop shopping there because it’s a few blocks from my apartment, right on my walk home from the Metro.

Giant has a section in the meat aisle called “SOMETHING SPECIAL”, which usually amounts to a few packages of free range chicken breasts and some sad-looking organic steaks.  However, last week I actually did find something special: duck legs!  They’re imported from Canada and what really blew my mind was that they cost less than $3 a piece.  I’d never cooked duck before, but for $2.70, I figured I could afford to screw it up.

As it turns out, roasting a duck leg is pretty much idiot-proof, and it’s delicious.  Roasting is also great because it’s easy, it renders out most of the fat, and the meat is falling-off-the-bone tender.  Lee and I actually split one leg along with a salad, butternut squash, and roasted onions.  For a heartier meal, use two legs.

Five Spice Roast Duck Leg

• 1-2 duck legs
• seeds from half a pomegranate (you could also substitute pomegranate juice for some of the wine)
• 1 onion, quartered
• 4 cloves of garlic, peeled
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 star anise pods
• dry red wine
• Chinese five spice powder
• salt, pepper, sugar

1.  Score the skin side of the duck legs with a knife.  Rub a pinch each of salt, pepper, sugar, and five spice powder onto the skin.  Be a little generous with the salt.

2.  Place duck in a baking dish along with the onions, garlic, anise, bay leaf, and pomegranate seeds.  [Tip: The best way to seed a pomegranate is in a bowl of water. Here's a video that shows you how to do it.]

3.  Pour enough red wine into the pan to come about half way up the side.  Cover the dish tightly with foil and roast at 375 for 1 hour.

4.  Remove foil from dish and continue roasting for another 30 minutes until the skin is crispy.  Alternatively, you can crisp the skin under the broiler.

5.  When the duck is finished, pour the excess fat out of the pan and reserve from later use.  (I hear it does wonders for potatoes.)  Serve the duck with pan sauce and roasted vegetables.

Serves 2.

Warning: This has nothing to do with food whatsoever.  Something happened to me on my commute home today, and I feel the need to rant.

Like many people in the DC area, I take the train to work.  Unfortunately, this being the nation’s capital, a lot of tourists also take the train.  I think the Green line generally fares better than other lines because there are fewer attractions and hotels on it, but it is not immune to influx of often clueless tourists.  Today, something happened that symbolizes everything I hate about our modern, affluent society and the parents and children that it breeds.

In the middle of rush hour, I get on a crowded train car only to be immediately greeted by a pair of rambunctious children jumping around and climbing up/sliding down the main pole by the door.  I and my fellow commuters squeeze ourselves past and around them, since these kids have pretty much rendered the pole unusable by any one else on the train.  I look around for a minute, wondering where their parents are.

I then hear this voice behind me say, “I’m not going to tell them to sit down.”  I turn around and realize that it’s Dad standing behind me and he has just informed Mom that he is about to completely check out of this situation.  He doesn’t say another work for the rest of the time I’m on the train.  I look to my other side and see Mom, sitting 3 rows back from her children, her view almost completely obstructed by commuters.  “Okay,” she says.  She then feebly calls out to her children, “Stay still!”

Obviously, they do not stay still.  Instead, they proceed to poke, punch, growl, squeal at at each other and generally thrash around the entire ride.  The boy will punch his sister, prompting her to scream, “MOM!” very indignantly.  Mom will then poke her head up from her seat, try to crane her neck around 4 people, and asks  what he did to her.  The boy shrugs and gives her this incredulous look, like, “I don’t know!  She must have just punched herself! Crazy!”  Then the whole sequence starts all over again.

“Are we at Greenbelt yet?” the boy yells out.  Greenbelt!  That’s another 20 or 30 minutes on the train.  All I can think about is how bad I feel for the people who will have the displeasure of riding all the way out to Greenbelt with this family.  At one point both children lean in to look at the system map, sticking their little upturned noses just inches away from the faces of the people sitting in front of the map.  Both commuters frown and tilt their heads to the side to avoid having their faces touch.

No once does either parent make a move to get up, separate their children, or otherwise attempt to discipline them.  Every so often, Mom will weakly suggest that they, “Stay still” or “Be careful, people are getting off”, a call which goes unheeded since it’s obvious that she can’t actually see them.

PUBLIC TRANSIT IS NOT A PLAYGROUND FOR YOUR ILL-BEHAVED CHILDREN.  This is a public place and their behavior is making it difficult for people to get on, off, and otherwise stand comfortably on the train.  While these kids were clearly annoying, I don’t blame them for not knowing proper Metro etiquette.  But parents, PLEASE, control your kids!  I know they don’t always want to cooperate, but at least make an effort.  It doesn’t matter if you’ve never ridden the train before; this stuff is common sense!  What it implicitly says to me, as a casual bystander, is that you really don’t have any respect for the other people around you.  And you’re just passing that lack of respect on to your children.

I hate it when people cannot be bothered to think about how their simple actions affect others.  Don’t get me wrong, we do inconsiderate things at times.  But what gets me is when it’s an action that is totally preventable or a situation that is easily correctable, and the offender remains totally clueless.  These parents could have gotten up at the next stop, separated their quarreling kids, and put them in a seat.  Instead, they did nothing.

I am going to be the meanest mom ever.